

They say Fort Knox is difficult to get into. It's not, but Louisville is difficult to get out of.
Much as I enjoyed the city, I thought I'd never escape its clutches. I was staying on the east side, so I spent most of Thursday crossing the city to reach Dixie Highway and continue southwest down the Ohio river.
The next day I tackled this road, commonly also known as Dixie Dieway thanks to its poor accident record. It was four, sometimes six lanes of heavy and fast-moving traffic, and as usual there was no provision for pedestrians.
I'd walked 120 blocks before the built-up area began to thin out, but even in the countryside there was no respite from the thundering procession of trucks whizzing by at not much more than arm's length. I probably inhaled a fatal dose of exhaust fumes - in fact the state of my lungs after this walk doesn't bear thinking about.
Thanks to
Goldfinger, we foreigners know Fort Knox mainly as the home of the United States Bullion Depository, where most of the country's gold reserves are stored, though the town also houses a huge military training base.
They don't usually welcome visitors at the Bullion Depository, but I thought nothing ventured, nothing gained. I spoke to Major John Zwiebelfresser of the public relations department, explained what I was doing, and asked if there was any chance of a look round. He said he'd speak to a few people and get back to me.
A couple of hours later, my phone rang. 'OK Phil, you're a very lucky guy. The boss says you can have a quick tour. Can you make it to the main entrance by noon?'
I turned up as instructed. The building was surprisingly small, set amid spacious grounds and surrounded by high barbed-wire fences. I handed over my passport, walked through a security scanner and was met on the other side by Zwiebelfresser, a rotund Texan wearing a stetson and chewing on a fat unlit cigar. 'This is a non-smoking facility, but they can't stop me getting my nicotine fix,' he boomed, encasing my hand in a vice-like grip.
He made a call on his two-way radio, and a minute later we were joined by two of his colleagues, one male and one female. 'It takes three different combinations to get into the vault,' he explained. 'No one person knows all of them.'
Each entered their combination, carefully standing with their backs to the rest of us. The vast steel door swung silently open, and there it was: one hundred billion dollars' worth of gold bars, row after row, stacked from floor to ceiling.
The room was silent, and otherwise empty but for a handful of workers, dressed in yellow jumpsuits and laboriously polishing the bars with white satin cloths. 'You know you Brits say a job is like painting the Forth bridge? One of those endless tasks where as soon as you've finished, you start again? Well here in the US we say it's like polishing the gold at Fort Knox.'
The major told me about a conspiracy theory almost as famous and widespread as the one about Apollo 11 being a hoax. 'They say that in the 1960s, most of the gold in Fort Knox was sent to London on the orders of Lyndon Johnson. Well, as you can see, it's all here just like it always was. We carry out an audit each year, and the results are made public.'
Did he think Fort Knox was totally impregnable, I asked him. 'No, but the guys wouldn't get far. We've got over a thousand tanks from the 81st Armor Regiment a hundred yards down the road. We'd blow their asses to kingdom come.'
The tour over, he took me into a side office. 'Me and the guys have got a little souvenir for you,' he confided. There, on a baize-covered table in the middle of the room, stood a 27-pound gold bar, glinting beneath the harsh fluorescent light.
'It's for you,' he told me. 'It was worth $152,000 at yesterday's closing prices. We admire what you're doing, and we'd like to present this to your charity on behalf of the American people. We can sell it for you, or we can transfer it to any bank in the world...'
...No, I'm sorry, I've been wasting your time. You have just witnessed my first venture into creative fiction, and this is all a pack of lies. Visitors have never been welcome at to the Fort Knox Bullion Depository, and nor will they ever be. I did go past and take this picture, though.